Big Wave Surfing

Surfing can actually be divided into a few different types. In big wave surfing, surfers ride waves that are at least 20 feet high, using long, large surfboards called “guns” or “rhino chasers”; large waves travel fast and large boards are needed to catch these waves. Large boards also give a surfer stability, but decrease the maneuverability of the board.

There are a number of risks to big wave surfing. When a surfer wipes out on a big wave, the breaking wave can force him down 20 or 50 feet under the surface; at this depth, water pressure can actually reach such high levels as to cause eardrums to rupture. Moreover, surfers below the surface must figure out which way is up and get to the surface to breathe in less than 20 seconds, which is often the time interval between one big wave and the next; if a second or third wave hits before a surfer reaches the surface, he or she will be kept under.

Lastly, strong currents can knock a surfer into a reef, rocks, or the ocean floor; many areas characterized by big waves are also characterized by very hazardous seafloor conditions. Surfers can suffer serious injuries or even death if they are knocked against any of these. Even though there are quite a number of risks associated with big wave surfing, deaths due to this type of surfing have been very rare (though severe injuries are common). The most notable big wave surfer deaths are that of Mark Foo, in 1994, Donnie Solomon, in 1995 and Todd Chesser in 1997.

Big waves are actually very rare because they need an enormous amount of open ocean and just the right water and geological conditions to gather the strength and energy they need to reach the speeds and heights that attract big wave surfers. Hawaii’s Waimea Bay, on Oahu’s North Shore, is infamous for big waves. The cyclone shaped tubular big wave called Teahupoo, in Tahiti, is one of the famous waves ridden by big wave surfers. Mavericks big wave surfing, in California, is also popular.

Many big wave surf episodes have been caught on video or film. Big wave surfing videos and big wave surfing pictures are some of the most amazing surfing footage around. You can find many big wave surfing video and big wave surfing photo examples on the Internet; surfing magazines will also almost always feature a big wave surfing picture section.

If the risks are so high, why do surfers ride big waves? Surfers claim that it helps them reach a spiritual dimension impossible to attain in normal everyday routines. To ride these big waves (that often reach 60 or 80 feet in height), you have to reach such a state of concentration and focus that you block out the entire world; only the wave exists. This is very similar to meditation and spiritual purification techniques. Many surfers have also compared riding big waves to riding pure energy.